Ketoconazole vs Zinc Pyrithione Shampoo: What Each One Is

Ketoconazole and zinc pyrithione are two names you will see often when people talk about dandruff shampoos. They are not the same kind of ingredient, and they are not regulated in the same way. This guide explains what each one is, where each one is used, and what a brand needs to know before planning an anti-dandruff shampoo.

Ketoconazole and zinc pyrithione: the short answer

• Ketoconazole is a medicated antifungal. In India and most other markets it is regulated as a drug, not as a cosmetic ingredient. Shampoos that contain it are sold as medicines, are usually prescribed or recommended by a doctor, and are made under a drug licence.
• Zinc pyrithione (ZPTO) is an anti-dandruff active used in rinse-off cosmetic shampoos in markets where it is permitted, within the limits those markets set. It is not allowed in cosmetics in the European Union since 2022, so the rules depend on where you sell.

So the two are not really competitors on a shelf. One sits in the pharmacy aisle as a medicine. The other is one of several options for a cosmetic anti-dandruff shampoo.

What is ketoconazole?

Ketoconazole belongs to a group of medicines called azole antifungals. Because it is a drug, its strength, labelling, directions and warnings are decided by drug regulators, and anyone using a ketoconazole shampoo should follow the label and the advice of their doctor or pharmacist. Questions about whether it is right for a particular person belong with a doctor, not with a shampoo brand.

For a cosmetic brand, the key point is simple: ketoconazole is not an ingredient you can put in a cosmetic shampoo. A product that contains it is a medicine and needs a drug manufacturing licence and drug registration.

What is zinc pyrithione?

Zinc pyrithione is a fine white powder that has been used in anti-dandruff shampoos for decades. In a rinse-off shampoo it helps reduce visible flakes and leaves the scalp feeling clean and comfortable. It is used at low levels and is suspended in the shampoo base, which is why many ZPTO shampoos look slightly opaque or pearly.

Points brands should know:

• It is a rinse-off active. It is meant for shampoos, not for leave-on hair oils or serums.
• Usage levels and permitted product types are set by each market. In India, follow the limits under the BIS cosmetic standards. In the EU it is no longer permitted in cosmetics.
• It needs a stable suspension system so the powder does not settle at the bottom of the bottle.

Other cosmetic anti-dandruff options

Many brands today build an anti-dandruff shampoo around more than one ingredient, or avoid ZPTO so the same formula can be sold in more markets. Common choices include:

• Piroctone olamine, a widely used anti-dandruff active in rinse-off shampoos.
• Salicylic acid, which gently exfoliates and helps loosen and lift flakes from the scalp.
• Climbazole, often paired with piroctone olamine in anti-dandruff ranges.
• Tea tree oil, neem and rosemary, used for a fresh, clean scalp feel and a natural story on pack.
• Menthol for a cooling sensation that customers notice straight away.

Ketoconazole vs zinc pyrithione at a glance

	Ketoconazole	Zinc pyrithione
Category	Medicine (drug)	Cosmetic anti-dandruff active, where permitted
Where it is sold	Pharmacies, often on a doctor's advice	Retail, salons, online
Licence to make it	Drug manufacturing licence	Cosmetic manufacturing licence
Can a private label cosmetic brand use it?	No	Yes, within the limits of the market it is sold in

How to use an anti-dandruff shampoo

For a cosmetic anti-dandruff shampoo, the usual directions are: wet the hair, massage a small amount into the scalp, leave it for a minute or two, then rinse well. Use it two or three times a week, or as directed on the label, and alternate with a mild shampoo if the hair feels dry. For a medicated shampoo, always follow the pack and your doctor's instructions.

Who should check with a doctor

If the scalp is very itchy, red, sore, or the flaking does not settle with a regular anti-dandruff shampoo, speak to a dermatologist. A cosmetic shampoo is meant to keep the scalp clean and reduce visible flakes. It is not a substitute for medical advice.

Launch your own anti-dandruff shampoo

Harrods Health makes private label anti-dandruff shampoos for brands in India and abroad, from 500 units. We can build a formula around zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine, salicylic acid or a botanical blend, match it to the markets you plan to sell in, and supply it in your own bottle and label. See how we work on haircare manufacturing, look at a ready anti-dandruff shampoo formula, browse our shampoo range or send us your brief to get started.